How to Choose the Perfect Colored Stone: Rubies, Sapphires, Emeralds & Beyond...

When it comes to fine jewelry, diamonds may be the household name—but connoisseurs know that the true world of beauty and intrigue lies in colored stones. A Ruby with the perfect pigeon blood glow, a Seductive Sapphire that shines with Cornflower blue purity, or an Emerald whose deep Vivid green feels alive with history—these are the treasures that inspire collectors, investors, and royalty alike.

But choosing the perfect colored stone is a far more nuanced process than most people realize. While diamonds are graded primarily on the absence of color, the world of Rubies, Sapphires, Emeralds, and other exotic stones turns that idea on its head. In fact, color is everything.

Diamonds vs. Colored Stones: A Completely Different World

Diamonds follow the strict “Four Cs”: Color, Cut, Clarity, and Carat Weight. But the definition of those categories shifts dramatically with colored stones.

Diamonds: The less color, the better. A D-color diamond (perfectly colorless) is the pinnacle of rarity.

Colored Stones: The opposite is true. Here, richness and vibrancy reign supreme. The deeper, more saturated, and more vivid the hue, the more desirable the Gemstone—as long as it isn’t oversaturated.

This subtle but critical distinction is why two Rubies that look similar to the untrained eye can vary by hundreds of thousands—even millions—of dollars.

The First C: Color

With colored stones, color is king. The right shade, tone, and saturation can mean the difference between a stone that is merely beautiful and one that is investment-grade.

A Pigeon Blood Burmese Ruby owes its value to its intensely pure, slightly bluish-red hue that glows with an inner fire.

A Cornflower Blue Kashmir Sapphire carries a velvety, almost luminous tone unmatched by stones from other origins.

A Colombian Emerald with a rich, evenly distributed green hue embodies the very definition of luxury.

Even the slightest nuance—just a touch more violet in a Ruby or a hint of yellow in a Sapphire—can significantly alter price and desirability.

The Second C: Cut

The cut of a colored stone is not just about symmetry or brilliance—it’s about unlocking the very soul of the Gem. Unlike diamonds, where standardized proportions are common, colored stones demand far greater artistry.

If a stone is cut too shallow or too deep, it may lose brilliance and scintillation (that sparkle and play of light that captivates the eye).

Expert cutters must orient the Gem to capture natural color zones within the crystal. Miss them, and the result is a lifeless stone. Capture them perfectly, and the Gem glows with exceptional vibrancy.

This is why the finest Rubies, Sapphires, and Emeralds often look almost alive—because their cutter understood how to reveal their hidden brilliance.

The Third C: Clarity

Clarity still matters with colored stones, though it is judged differently than diamonds. While inclusions (tiny natural features inside a stone) can detract from beauty and value, they are often more tolerated in colored stones—especially in Emeralds.

Emeralds are famous for their jardin (French for “garden”)—a poetic way to describe their natural inclusions. Connoisseurs accept, even expect, these features as part of the Emerald’s character.

Rubies and Sapphires, on the other hand, are more highly prized when their bodies are relatively clean, allowing their rich colors to shine unobstructed.

A small, strategically placed inclusion may not hurt value at all. But an inclusion in the wrong place—such as under the table facet—can greatly reduce a stone’s desirability.

The Fourth C: Carat Weight

Finally, size matters. With colored stones, rarity multiplies exponentially with carat weight. A one-carat Ruby may be collectible. A ten-carat Ruby with the perfect pigeon blood red is priceless.

The same holds true with Sapphires and Emeralds. Large, top-quality stones are vanishingly rare and sought after by the world’s most discerning collectors. For connoisseurs, this makes them not only objects of beauty but also a tangible luxury asset class with long-term investment potential.

Why Expert Guidance Matters

Unlike diamonds, where grading reports can tell much of the story, colored stones require the trained eye of a Gemologist. Subtle differences in hue, cut, or clarity can’t always be captured on paper, yet they dramatically impact both beauty and value.

This is why collectors, investors, and jewelry lovers often travel to Bangkok—the world’s gemstone capital—on a Gemstone Safari. Guided by a GIA Gemologist, they gain access to the top 1% of global wholesalers, viewing 20–30 world-class stones instead of the handful found in a typical retail setting.

In such an environment, you don’t just see a stone—you discover the one that speaks to you.

Frequently Asked Questions About Choosing Colored Stones

Are colored stones a good investment?

Yes. Top-quality Rubies, Sapphires, and Emeralds are considered a real luxury tangible asset class. Unlike diamonds, which are mass-marketed, fine colored stones are rare, finite, and often appreciate in value over time—especially when sourced directly from reputable wholesalers.

Which colored stone is the rarest: Ruby, Sapphire, or Emerald?

All three have their place in history, but truly fine Rubies—especially Pigeon Blood Burmese Rubies—are the rarest. Sapphires from Kashmir and Colombian Emeralds of top quality are also extraordinarily scarce.

What matters more: color or clarity in colored stones?

Color always comes first. A perfectly clean Ruby or Emerald with weak color won’t inspire collectors. Vibrant saturation and brilliance define value. Clarity still plays a role, but it is secondary.

Why do Emeralds often have inclusions?

Emeralds naturally form with internal features known as jardin. Collectors accept this as part of their charm, and stones with beautiful color and character are still highly prized—even with visible inclusions.

Do I really need a Gemologist to buy a Connoisseur colored stone?

Absolutely. Because subtle differences can change value dramatically, having an expert—especially a GIA Gemologist—ensures you select a stone that is not only beautiful but also a sound investment.

If you’d like to experience the thrill of choosing your own investment-grade Ruby, Sapphire, or Emerald at the source, consider joining me for a private Gemstone Safari in Bangkok. For details, visit GemstoneSafari.com and schedule a complimentary consultation.

Author Bio...

Joseph Schall is a GIA Gemologist with over 30 years in the global gemstone trade and Founder of Gemstone Safari. Having lived and worked in Bangkok for over a decade, Joseph has sourced some of the world’s most important Rubies, Sapphires, and Emeralds, building trusted relationships with the top 1% of international wholesalers. Through Gemstone Safari, he guides connoisseurs and collectors to acquire ethically sourced, investment-grade gemstones at true wholesale value.